The honest total: about five minutes a week, a filter swap every month or three, and a water change driven by how much you use it. Here's everything, in the order it matters.
Weekly — 5 Minutes
- Listen. A smooth hum means all is well.
- Check the filter — the CNC-routed Starboard top over the mechanical bay lifts for tool-free access to the filter and timers. Oils and detergent can clog a filter that still looks clean — if flow seems weak, the filter is suspect #1.
- Skim debris — leaves, grass, sand. A pool vacuum makes quick work of anything on the bottom.
- Wipe the waterline.
Every 1–3 Months — Filter Swap
Standard 50-micron cartridge. Home use: every 2–3 months. Commercial or heavy use: as often as weekly.
- Unplug the plunge. (The one time you ever do.)
- Close the shut-off valves by the filter.
- Open the pressure relief valve to release pressure.
- Turn the filter clockwise to remove — yes, clockwise. It's reverse-threaded.
- Seat the new filter (counterclockwise to tighten), and check the rubber O-ring is in place — no O-ring, guaranteed leak.
- Close the relief valve, reopen the shut-off valves, plug back in, confirm the hum.
Pro move: run two cartridges on rotation. Soak the used one in filter degreaser (a hose rinse leaves the oils behind — that's why cartridges stay gray), let it dry fully on the shelf, and it's your next spare.
The Ozone System
Your ozonator is preset at the shop, sized for residential use. Signs it's working: fine bubbles in the water, a faint clean-ozone smell at the surface, clear water.
If water quality slips, check the filter first. A clogged filter restricts flow, and restricted flow starves the ozone system. It is the #1 cause of "the ozone isn't working." Replace the filter before touching anything else — the ball valve is preset and should stay where we set it.
Residential use: ozone plus this routine is the complete system — no added chemicals needed. That's what the plunge is designed for.
Commercial or high use: once bather load climbs, the water gets treated differently — increased ozone cycles via the mechanical bay timer, plus a residual sanitizer and exchange schedule per our water treatment plan: Keeping Cold Plunge Water Clean.
Water Changes
Light residential use: a full change every 1–3 months is typical — or whenever the water starts looking cloudy (usually body oils plus a loaded filter; ozone can only sanitize so much). The included submersible pump makes it a 20-minute job.
Heavier use — by bather load, not the calendar:
| Plunges per day | Full drain | Partial exchange |
|---|---|---|
| 1–5 | Monthly | — |
| 6–20 | Every 2 weeks | 20% weekly |
| 21–40 | Weekly | 20–30% every 2–3 days |
| 40+ | 2× weekly | 20–30% daily |
Partial exchanges are the underrated move — 20 minutes, and the water never gets the chance to go bad.
Fresh water only. No salt water, no Epsom salts, no additives of any kind — salt attacks stainless steel, seals, and the chiller's internals, and additive damage isn't covered under warranty.
The Lid
- Closed and locked whenever you're not in it: temperature, cleanliness, safety.
- Wipe weekly with mild soap and water. No bleach.
- Let it dry fully before closing — trapped moisture grows mildew.
- Outdoors in strong sun? A monthly coat of UV protectant (like 303 Aerospace) keeps it new.
Winter
The plunge is built to run outside through winter — moving water doesn't freeze, which is exactly why the pump never stops. If you're shutting down for the season instead: drain completely, disconnect hoses, and store the chiller and pump indoors. Never leave it full and unplugged in freezing weather — still water freezes, and expanding ice splits pipes and housings.
Troubleshooting
| Symptom | Check, in order |
|---|---|
| Pump stopped | Power connection → unusual sounds → call us. In freezing temps, act fast. |
| Not cooling | Filter clog → power → water level |
| Cloudy water | Filter → bather load (drain schedule) → biofilm (see water guide) |
| Leak | Fittings and hose connections → filter O-ring |
Anything you can't solve in five minutes, contact us. Hand-built means we know exactly what's inside your unit. Full coverage terms: Warranty & Service.